Showing posts with label THEY WHAT FOOD??. Show all posts
Showing posts with label THEY WHAT FOOD??. Show all posts

Monday, August 24, 2009

How Did they Discover Coffee from a Bean?


Written by Andrea Scalici

I don’t know if it’s my inquisitive nature or my obvious love of food but I often find myself pondering the origins of some of my favorite, can’t live without, treats. Like coffee for example; who would have thought that simply roasting some beans would turn into this amazing black elixir I couldn’t start my day without? And so began my quest to finally uncover such answers...
We start in Ethiopia around the 15th century. Legend has it that a goat herder came upon a lively group of “dancing goats” chewing on bright red berries from a bush. He decided to try to berries for himself, immediately enjoying the exhilaration. The man ran with the berries to a nearby monastery and showed them to an Islamic holy man, who in turn, disapproved of their use and threw them into his fire. The "Legend of Dancing Goats" goes on to describe the enticing, billowing aroma that came out of the fire where the beans were swiftly rescued from the flames, ground up, and dissolved in hot water – producing the world’s first cup of coffee.

The story then moves throughout Arabia, where qahwa beans were roasted and brewed similar to today, Persia, Turkey, and northern Africa. From the Muslim world, kahve spread to Italy and the rest of Europe, Indonesia, and the Americas. The first European caffè house opened in Italy in 1645.

Coffee has since seen many advances and reformations. One I have to wonder about is the world's most expensive variety, Kopi Luwak, named for the Indonesian word coffee and its "processor", the Asian Palm Civet.
These cat/raccoon-like animals ingest the red coffee cherries containing the fruit and seed. The inner bean is not digested, but a unique combination of enzymes in the stomach break down the proteins that give coffee its bitter taste. The beans are defecated, still covered in some inner layers of the berry, washed, and given a light roast (so as to not destroy the complex flavors that develop through the process). The most pronounced characteristic of Kopi Luwak is a marked reduction in bitterness. How did anyone think to do this?! It is said that these omnivores tend to pick the ripest and sweetest fruit, thus providing brewers with a natural selection for the best coffee beans. But still?! Is there anything left to discover about coffee? I have to wonder...

In today’s world, these magic beans are a vital cash crop for many Third World countries where coffee is the primary export. Though the process hasn’t changed very much relatively speaking, the culture certainly has. On any given day in America you can choose regular or decaf, bold or medium, and au lait or light and sweet. You could even attend a cupping or coffee tasting to explore different regions’ distinctions. And on any given day, you can find me with my billowing aromatic, piping hot cup in my hand, complete with a little cream.

Stay tuned for the upcoming installments that explore the origins of popcorn, bagels, and more!
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Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Reader Discretion Advised

written by Andrea Scalici
In the Land of the Free where we eat what we please, it is hard to imagine using more of a product than the same ol’ thigh, breast, or wing. But all over the world, cutting up a fish or animal and using every single part is common practice.. While the varieties run the gamut, I have broken it down so it’s easier to stomach. Blood, Brains, Body, and Booze. (Reader discretion advised…)

BLOOD

In places like Hungary, Trinidad, Sweden, China, and all over Europe, pig’s blood is used for dishes such as blood and eggs, blood pudding – much like rice pudding –, blood dumplings, jellied blood, and of course, blood sausage (the only food my brother doesn’t like), all respectively. Blood sausage is known and Boudin in France and Blutwurst in Germany so be sure to know what you are ordering.

BRAINS

Not only used for thinking, but also for nourishment, who woulda thought?! Right here in the U.S. of A. dishes like squirrel brain grace tables in the South. Other places in the world enjoy calf’s brains, or tete de veau, in France; sheep’s head, called smalahove, in Sweden; and cow brains, made into “tacos sesos”, in Mexico.

BODY

This is where it gets interesting, seeing exactly how consumers get the most if their meat. Monkey toes in Indonesia for example, deep-fried and eaten off the bone like our version of chicken wings. “Borewors” from South Africa are sheep, pig, and cow intestines stuffed with meat and off cuts, much like our version of sausage. Have the BBQ on? Why not try skewered rat like in Thailand. Got a smoker in your house? How about smoked bat like in Indonesia. If those aren’t for you maybe you would rather try dried bugs or lizards like in Beijing or Hong Kong? A little closer to home of course is the cow’s foot, usually jellied in Poland and called “nozki” or “p’tcha” in the Jewish religion. If that wasn’t enough use of your cow, you could always use the lungs too like they do in Malaysia and the Philippians. I am starting to feel like we are being very wasteful here!

BOOZE

Last but certainly not least are the many wondrous things our human race does with the art of fermentation. Though definitely not as…well, interesting, as the foods listed above, these liquors certainly break the mold. If you are, like me, a big fan of artichokes, try “Cynar” from Italy, a bitter liqueur made from artichokes. (There also exists a non-alcoholic artichoke tea from Vietnam). “Kvass”, from Russia is for beer lovers and is a beer-like beverage made by fermenting old bread in water. And from Greece, “Retsina” takes a different twist on white wine by adding pine resin. The story goes that the church imposed taxes on wines not altered in an attempt to discourage drinking. But as these things go, the people developed a taste for the cheap stuff!

Bon appetit

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Friday, May 15, 2009

What Seasons Tastes Like

by Andrea Scalici


Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall Seasonal Eating...  

What tastes like Spring
Vegetables like artichoke, spinach, kale, watercress, radishes, broccoli, cauliflower, new potatoes, onion, rhubarb, bamboo shoots and asparagus, garnished with bountiful parsley. A great drink to enjoy outside, mojitos are back with fresh mint to wash down that big bowl of guacamole. We can also enjoy the beginnings of fruit harvests for strawberries, great to replace the end of blood oranges. On the protein side of things, nothing says Easter like Spring Lamb but it’s also great to fire up the pot for the last of the mussels or the incoming crabs. Now is also the time to experiment with grouse, and hare, or maybe some salty sardines.

Summer Grilling
The fresh produce really explodes onto the scene from June to August with all the varieties of crisp beans, sweet Summer peas, buttery chanterelles, and earthy eggplant, peppers, Swiss chard and turnips. Accompanying dinner every night can be a bright salad of lettuce or arugula, cucumbers and tomatoes, all ingredient at their peak to refresh us in these hot months. My favorite fruits find the stands again, like sweet and tart cherries, juicy nectarines, exotic mangos, dark plums, cool melons, and all the brightly flavored berries hitting their strides. And of course, it wouldn’t be summer without corn on the cob! Pair it all up with lamb chops, salmon, soft shall crabs, bass, trout, tuna, John Dory, or late summer lobster on the grill. Or make a Southern-style dish of crayfish and orka. Don’t forget to serve everything with fragrant and colorful basil, a staple in the summertime.

Autumn Beauty
In that time when the leaves are changing and the sun seems to be golden all day with the light of dusk, we can start to see the change in our dinner plates too. Fall tastes like pumpkin for sure, but also like chestnut, fig, sweet potato, squash, beet, mushroom, and apples, pears, and cranberries. Fall also brings back the months with R's in them which means oyster season (and clams)! If that weren’t enough, big game hunting goes into full swing, with deer, elk and moose in the spotlight.

Cozy Winter Warmers
I know for me, the only thing that can warm my weary winter bones is comfort food, slow cooked with rich flavors, like stews featuring seasonal carrot, turnip, daikon, parsnip and rutabaga. Other great sides to a nice roast may be brussels sprouts sautéed with shallots, braised red cabbage, beetroot, sunchoke, or potato leek soup. This is also the time of year for great citrus and winter pears. Duck and goose are the tradition winter players on the main stage with great seafood options like sea bass, scallops, Pacific yellowtail, Pacific cod, halibut, monkfish, skate, mussels and the wondrous treat that is Stone Crab.

But for now, we can put the cold weather behind us and those ingredients on a shelf, and get outside to buy vibrant fruits and vegetables to last us all season long. Nothing tastes more like Spring than fresh produce.

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Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Ketchup & Toast! Wait…Lemon Cake & Rhubarb? You sneaky little…

written and photographed by Rebekah Peppler
This month brings about sunny days tinged with the chill of early spring, blooming cherry blossoms and lighthearted April fools. There is also the revival of color to the green markets, bustling and alive with the energy that only bright, fresh produce can bring after months of root vegetables and apple cider.

Rhubarb leads the pack of these new bright colors; the vibrant red to pale pink stalks of field-grown rhubarb fill baskets and bags, destined for kitchens all around the city. Many delicious pies, tarts and crisps will be made but why not have a bit more unconventional fun with rhubarb this year.

Since playing with food is just as much fun as eating it, fool your nearest and dearest this April with a riff on takeout French fries for dessert, or breakfast, or perhaps just a midday snack. This combination of lemony pound cake, sweet and juicy compote and freshly whipped cream is perfect for a spring day, fools or not.

Pound cake is one of my favorite desserts, not only because it is delicious, delicate and dense at the same time but because it is conveniently “tant pour tant.” Traditionally the four main ingredients – butter, flour, sugar and eggs – all weigh the same. In fact, you can probably surmise how the pound cake came by its name: a pound of each is all you need to make a fabulous cake. Nonetheless, I love to enhance this perfectly proportioned cake with sweet Meyer lemon zest and vanilla to give it that extra boost of flavor.

The strawberry is rhubarb’s classic accomplice, combining its sweet nectar with rhubarb’s snappy tang. The fact that it contributes a red, pseudo-ketchup color only makes it all the better.

Recipe: Toasted Lemon Pound Cake “Fries” with Strawberry-Rhubarb “Ketchup”
Lemon Pound Cake – Adapted from the French Culinary Institute
Yields two loaves
450 g / 1 lb / 4 ½ cups cake flour
Pinch of salt
1 tbsp baking powder
450 g / 1 lb / 2 cups butter
450 g / 1 lb / 2 cups granulated sugar
2 Meyer lemons, zested
9 eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt.
Cream the butter, sugar and zest until light and fluffy, scraping down sides often.
Whisk together eggs and vanilla extract and add gradually.
Stir in sifted ingredients just to combine.
Pour into buttered and floured loaf pans and bake for 20 minutes at 325˚F, then lower the oven to 300˚F and bake another 15 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Allow to cool completely, then slice into French fry sticks and toast in a 350˚F until lightly browned.
Serve with Rhubarb “Ketchup” and Crème Chantilly ”Mayonaise”

Compote de Rhubarb/”Ketchup”
454 g / 1 lb rhubarb
227 g / ½ lb strawberries
50 g / ¼ cup granulated sugar
½ tsp vanilla
Juice and zest of 3 Meyer lemons

Peel the rhubarb with a vegetable peeler and cut evenly into ¼ inch cubes
Cut strawberries into same size pieces.
Stir together rhubarb, sugar, vanilla, lemon juice and water in a saucepan over low heat to coat the fruit, bring to a boil.
Reduce heat to a simmer and cook stirring occasionally until the rhubarb and strawberries are soft and falling apart.
Blend the compote and strain through a sieve.

Crème Chantilly/”Mayonaise”
½ cup heavy cream, chilled
2 Tbsp confectioners sugar, sifted
¼ tsp pure vanilla extract
pour the cream into a chilled bowl and whisk until thickened. Add sifted confectioners sugar and vanilla and whip to a soft peak.

Tips for buying and storing Rhubarb:
Stalks should be firm and crisp
While size doesn’t indicate tenderness, the brighter red the rhubarb is the sweeter it will taste
Remove fibers from the stalk with a vegetable peeler
To store, refrigerate stalks in a plastic bag for 3 to 5 days
For longer storage chop into 1 – inch pieces and freeze in an airtight bag up to 9 months
Never eat the leaves of rhubarb as they contain toxins that can cause poisoning when ingested
1 lb = 3 cups raw sliced rhubarb

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Friday, March 13, 2009

Tulip Petals Taste of Cucumbers


Written by Rebekah Peppler (2 Flower recipes included)
Ah… to add the taste of sweet, spice, mint, floral or citrus to a meal. To sprinkle flavor on top of a finished dish, tweaking the final result, enhancing that last dimension of texture, color and taste is divine. No, this isn’t a fanciful description of the virtues of freshly-cracked black pepper, fragrant Herbes de Provence or robust ground cumin. In fact, there’s no need to reach for the spice rack at all; simply reach for the flower pot
Edible flowers of all varieties can be found in many innovative kitchens across the country, adding a touch of elegance and a surprising balance of texture, fragrance, color and flavor to many dishes, both sweet and savory.

What’s even better is the wide variety of choices: tulip petals taste of cucumbers and fresh sweet peas, nasturtiums lend a peppery watercress flavor, and lilacs evoke pungent lemon. While carnations are surprisingly sweet, young dandelions taste of honey, and miniature pansies leave a tinge of wintergreen on your palate.

Start off simply with quick and easy way to make sugared flower petals. Brush a thin layer of egg white all over the petal and gently toss in a bowl of granulated sugar and allow petals to dry on a rack or nonstick surface for a few minutes. Voila! You have a gorgeous garnish for a dessert, the perfect accent to your champagne cocktail or a surprisingly tasty snack. If you’re looking for a way to amp up your weekend omelet, add a few petals of violet to the mix and proceed as normal. Or, simply, toss a few lilac or carnation petals into your next salad.

As fun as edible flowers are, it’s imperative that cooks either grow their own organically or choose flowers that have not been sprayed with chemicals or pesticides. Do not eat flowers from florists, nurseries or garden centers. Also, while many flowers are edible, some are toxic. Cooks should be aware of what they are putting in their dishes by doing some research. If you have any safety concerns – skip it till you can learn more – there’s always the backup spice rack.
Easy Caprese Salad with Edible flowers
Serves 4
Heirloom tomatoes 4 medium; sliced
Fresh buffalo mozzarella 1 lb; thinly sliced
Edible flowers

Balsamic Dressing
Balsamic vinegar 1 cup
Fresh rosemary sprigs 2
Butter 2 Tbsp
Black pepper
Sea salt

1. Slice the tomatoes and cheese 1/4" thick. Arrange the slices of tomato and cheese on a serving platter.

To make the rosemary balsamic reduction:
1. Place 1 cup of balsamic vinegar in a medium saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil.

2. Add the rosemary and boil gently till reduced to about ¼ cup.

3. Remove from heat, add 2 Tbsp butter and mix to combine. Remove rosemary springs and drizzle over tomatoes and mozzarella.

4. Garnish with edible flowers, a nice crack of black pepper and sprinkling of sea salt. Serve with extra reduction on the side.


Meyer Lemon Crème with Beurre Noisette Shortbread Crumble and Edible Flowers
serves 4
Meyer Lemon Crème
Meyer lemons juice 1/2 cup
Meyer lemon zest from 3 small meyer lemons
Tangelo zest from ½ medium tangelo
Granulated sugar ½ cup
Whole egg 1
Egg yolk 1
Butter 4 Tbsp / 2 oz / 56 g; cut into small, even pieces
Heavy whipping cream ½ cup / 4 oz / 115 g

Beurre Noisette Shortbread Crumble
Confectioner's sugar ¼ cup 
All-purpose flour ¾ cup
Unsalted butter 6 Tbsp 
Thinly sliced almonds 1/4 cup; toasted
Salt pinch

Garnish
Confectioner’s sugar
Edible flowers

To make the Meyer Lemon Crème:
1. Zest the lemons and juice through a sieve. Whisk together zests, juice, sugar and eggs in a heatproof bowl set over a bain marie. Stir constantly until thickened; 10-15 minutes.
Test to see if it’s finished by drawing a line with your finger across a wooden spoon; if the line stays and no liquid slips down the curd is finished.

2. Remove the bowl carefully from heat and stir in the butter till completely melted.

3. Strain the mixture through a sieve to remove any curdled egg yolk and zest. Chill completely.

4. When curd is completely chilled. Beat the heavy whipping cream to a soft peak and gently fold into the lemon curd. Cover and chill until ready to use.

To make the Beurre Noisette Shortbread Crumble:
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat till browned but not burnt; stirring frequently. Allow to cool slightly.

3. In the meantime, finely grind the cooled, toasted almonds in a food processor.

4. Sift together the confectioner’s sugar, flour and salt into a bowl. Add the butter and almonds and mix just until combined.

5. Evenly spread the dough about 1/4 inch thick on a parchment-lined sheet pan and bake until the top and bottom are lightly browned about 20-25 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely then crumble with your fingers to the desired consistency. 


To assemble:
1. Spoon the Meyer lemon cream into a small bowl or plate, sprinkle shortbread crumble generously on top. Dust lightly with confectioner’s sugar and decorate with edible flowers such as such as pansies, nasturtiums and/or geraniums.

Chef’s notes:
* The Meyer lemon curd will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Once you incorporate the heavy cream serve it the same day.
* Orange zest may be substituted for the tangelo
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Monday, February 2, 2009

Palette Provocative

Written by Chad Fraley
With spring in the mail and Valentine’s Day just around the corner, the conversation about aphrodisiacs is here again. There are many myths and stories about this ritual and serious research has gone into certain ingredients, but do they really heighten libido? or is it wishful thinking?

Encyclopedia Britannica Article
Aphrodisiac: any of various forms of stimulation thought to arouse sexual excitement. Aphrodisiacs may be classified in two
principal groups: 1. psycho-physiological (visual, tactile, olfactory, and aural), and 2. internal (stemming from food, alcoholic drinks, drugs, love potions, medical preparations). Certain foods enhance blood flow or boost hormones or even raise body temp if you’re eating something spicy.

There are all kinds of natural aphrodisiacs that affect your swinging psyche in different ways. Asparagus is a common aphrodisiac, consumed all year round, but probably never thought of as one. It is high in potassium, fiber, folic acid, vitamin B6, vitamins A, and C. It is also said that asparagus raises histamine levels in both sexes which aides in achieving orgasm. The long green monsters can be prepared in many different ways. I made an asparagus mousse last week that turned out fantastic served next to a napoleon of grilled zucchini and yellow squash alternating levels with sautéed ham and crispy strips of bacon with a goat cheese cream sauce. It was a sexy dish.

Oysters are another aphrodisiac ranking up there in potency, though not as popular to some. Their slimy appearance and the smell of fresh sea air make these sensual mollusks a great experience or a bad idea. I happen to love ‘em. Oysters are a source of dopamine and high in zinc, which allegedly raises testosterone levels. Another healthy benefit in these treasures is Omega-3 fatty acid. Oysters are delicious, served on the half shell with a little cream and spinach, and broiled in the oven for a few minutes. Pair them with a light white wine, and you’re in business.

Chocolate is always a winner in the aphrodisiac category and a popular Valentine’s Day treat. Dark chocolate contains anti-oxidants that keep us healthy and it contains phenyl ethylamine, the neuron-transmitter that is activated in our bodies when we fall in love. Chocolate may actually act as an anti-depressant and has a calming reaction like an anxiety pill.

Interestingly, even smells can light that certain fuse, like fresh toasted almonds or the aroma of wine. A smell can simulate thoughts and feelings just as much as the taste of food.

If you’re not sure how to use some of these ingredients in your next sexy celebration, check out InterCourses - an Aphrodisiac Cookbook by Martha Hopkins and Randall Lockridge, a great resource on the topic.

It’s important to note that most of these aphrodisiacs are natural foods. From fruits such as banana, strawberry, avocado, and figs, to pine nuts, black beans, and honey. Aphrodisiacs can be found in the simplest of dishes. So get creative this February and cook with LOVE, literally.

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Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Hunger Strike

by Chad Fraley

The fascinating question of what makes us hungry is a question that usually gets a resolution but no answer. It’s a phenomenon that is built into us. Sometimes we do it to ourselves with a certain amount of Friday and Saturday night activities such as partying, but naturally hunger occurs by physiological influences, such as the obvious empty stomach. Other symptoms of hunger are gastric contractions, absence of nutrients in the small intestines and GI hormones.

Endorphins (the brains pleasure chemicals) are triggered by the smell, sight, or taste of food and enhanced by the desire of delicious foods. Smell, sight, and taste are examples of Sensory Influences which make you begin a meal. The taste of the food usually deciphers whether or not you finish a meal. Once the awareness of hunger is present, and the meal has begun, the Cognitive Influences take shape. These could be time of day, presence of others, or type of food, or even the cost, possibly free food, which is always the best. The savory glands do their job of sending signals to the brain, which release the endorphins telling us this is good and we are happy and eating.

Postingestive Influences are the reaction of food entering the stomach and GI tract. Food in the stomach triggers stretch receptors and causes the feeling of being full. Once this process has started, nutrients have entered the small intestines and releases hormones signaling gastric emptying. Postabsorptive Influences are the result of nutrients entering the blood stream. These influences signal the brain through nerves and hormones about availability, use, and storage the nutrients. As nutrients are used and stored as well as burned as energy, hunger will develop again and start the whole cycle over causing us to feel hungry.

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Sunday, December 14, 2008

A Fish to Die For

by Chad Fraley

We have all heard great stories about people staking their livelihoods at the poker table, but risking one’s life at dinner? What an interesting proposition... If you’re in the mood for gambling with seafood and betting your life, this is your dish. Fugu, Japanese for
puffer fish, is the most dangerous food being served today and has been for centuries. It is considered a delicacy in the two countries that allow it to be served, Japan and the United States (as of 2003).

The kidneys and the liver of this fish contain a lethal amount of poison called tetrodotoxin. This is a neurotoxin that will shut down electrical impulses of nerves if ingested, binding itself to sodium channel proteins in the nerve cell membranes. At onset, this causes headaches, nausea, exhaustion and dizziness, followed by paralysis. With paralysis comes not only the inability to move muscles, but also leads to loss of speech, and then breath. The victim will finally asphyxiate from the poison and be awake for the whole thing, enduring everything while conscious. Death typically occurred in 50-80 percent of diners within four to 24 hours of ingestion. The whole thing kind of reminds me of a bad episode from “Tales from the Crypt”. Currently, there is no known antidote for fugu poisoning. Trying to sustain the respiratory and circulatory systems are crucial for the victim to have a chance at all of survival. As of recently, however, researchers, along with farmers, have found a way to breed a non-toxic strain of fugu.

Not only is this a risky bet, it's also an expensive one. A single dish of fugu goes for around $50 (but has been found for as low as $20). If you want a complete fugu meal, it will probably be a little more, costing somewhere between $100 and $200. There are 17 restaurants in The United States that serve this dangerous feast, and 12 of them are in New York. These highly poisonous fish require a special license obtained by a chef trained to the Japanese standard of preparing and cooking fugu to certain, safe, specifications.

The most bizarre part of my research was that in some parts of Japan, a fugu victim is placed next to a coffin for three days and if the body does not start to decompose, it’s not dead. They then start a revival procedure that is not in any medical books. This happens especially in the most primitive areas of the country. There are some stories of victims showing death like signs after laying there for a few days and being completely conscious, then coming out of this coma like trance just moments before being cremated. I’m not sure if any taste is worth that gamble.

I have read and heard it’s a slight cross between flounder and the freshest of cuttlefish in flavor and texture. Rated by NY Magazine as having the best tasting fugu in New York City, is none other than Morimoto, at 88 Tenth Ave. The dangerous delicacy is served between October and March, which is prime fugu season. The Iron Chef has never had any fatalities after dining at his restaurant, undefeated, if you will (knock on wood). The fish are cleaned and dressed in Japan, flash frozen and flown over here, where they are safer by the time they get to your plate. The innards are disposed of in a hazardous waste container like syringes in a hospital.


I think I’ll keep my gambling to cards and leave the fish to those who dare to digest it. If you ever decide to try it, make sure you do a little research on it first, and eat at a reputable restaurant like Morimoto. Good luck and safe eating.

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Sunday, October 12, 2008

There's a Grasshopper in my Taco. Toloache

Toloache (toh-lo-AH-tchay) 251 W. 50th Street (bet. 8th and B'way Aves.)

When you walk into this midtown eatery, you quickly realize this is not your ordinary Theater District fare. The atmosphere is comfortable and inviting, as are the wonderful smells enticing your olfactory senses to sit and stay awhile. The décor invokes a small artisan town with hand-painted tiles and elegant silver lanterns. The bar boasts over a hundred types of tequila 
and makes exciting and interesting mojitos, like mango, and creative cocktails, like the Kumquat. After ordering a margarita, sangria or other drink of choice, the time comes to move onto the menu which feels like a tour through Mexico, with an inventive worldly spin. The guacamole trio is a must, which is a sampling of the house guacamoles; one traditional, one spicy with chipotle peppers, and one sweet with pomegranate seeds, peaches and Thai basil. Some may be skeptical of pomegranate seeds and avocado, but it is an excellent and unexpected combo. After so many delectable starters, I like to stick to the tacos for my entree. Toloache has a large selection to accommodate most tastes, from lobster to the Oaxacan favorite, dried grasshopper. My usual is the Negra Modelo-braised brisket with tomatillo salsa and horseradish cream, a great dish any day of the week. I don't normally gravitate toward tilapia on any menu, but the Baja-style tilapia tacos with spicy jicama slaw and guacamole proved too tempting. When I tell you they were some of the best fish tacos I have had, I am being modest. The fish was tender and the slaw was flavorful, coming together to make the perfect fish taco. With friends at my side, we rounded this meal out with a side of cactus fries and rice & beans with sweet plantains (all delicious). The cactus, dusted in blue corn meal and deep fried, is something you don't see too often which makes it an even more interesting and delicious accompaniment. Being from Texas, Mexican food, whether it is Tex-Mex or authentic, is my favorite cuisine. I am going to go out on a limb and say Toloache served me the BEST Mexican food I have ever had. Chef Julian Medina has successfully married his Mexican heritage and French culinary technique into a great restaurant with big flavors.

Visit the website at:
http://toloachenyc.com/media/toloache.html

Written by Jeremy Hargrove

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Sunday, September 14, 2008

Bacon Candy

As I wait in the Union Square Whole Foods line I am thinking 2 things. One is how is this place just as packed at 11AM as it is at 6PM. Two, there is no way I am buying these $10 chocolate/ health food bars that they strategically place right beside the waiting aisle to lure you in. I said that to myself until I saw “IT”. Though “IT” was weird at first sight, initially unappealing and ridiculous, I could not turn away. Though I was Intrigued; I left Whole Foods without it. Then the more I thought about the salty, delicious taste of apple wood smoked bacon and the sweet rich taste of cocoa, “IT” became a morsel of the 2 greatest weaknesses of any sweet and salt tooth. So I said, “naaaah, still not gonna buy it.”

Well, that changed. I went on my weekly Whole Foods run and temptation possessed me. I thought to myself,
Vosges Bacon Chocolate Bar, I have to know your flavor. I reluctantly exchanged $12 for the 6 inch pig candy. I took my first bite, and was in an eccentric wonderland where breakfast and dessert met. Nostalgic childhood images of dragging bacon through a puddle of sweet syrup danced through my head. It was euphoria, where edible pigs ate organic chocolate truffles, and the world was a savory and sweeter place. Feeling benevolent from the chocolate bacon high, I shared half of my treat to a man that lived in Union Square Park. Though he didn’t feel as happy about the flavor as I did, Vosges mission to bring people together through the power of unique chocolate fare was accomplished in my experience.

How in the world did they know bacon would taste so f
antastic in a chocolate bar?

Written by Brandon Johnson

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Sunday, August 10, 2008

Gourmet Garbage with a Cause

Grocers like Whole foods, and Dean and Deluca throw away edible produce on a routine basis. And people like you and me are grocery shopping from their trash bins to make a stand.

Imagine this… You’re at a great dinner party; I mean the works - smoky tomato & orange pepper soup, crisp fried zucchini slices, and potato pancakes topped with sautéed mushrooms and fresh herbs. You are so impressed with the succulent spread, eclectic music, and rousing conversation about social issues, that you have to find out how this came together. It is the perfect soiree, and the host tells you it’s compliments of our local grocery store. To show you more, she invites you to Whole Foods to get free groceries and of course you take the invite. Recycled bags in-hand you meet at the store, ready to stock up. However, she proceeds past the main entrance and heads toward back where the dumpsters are full of food, and
begins to dig in… Ah ha! Now, the dinner party starts to make sense. The conversation about social issues, the vegan dishes, the garbage shopping - she’s a “freegan”!

“Freeganism” (combining words free and vegan) is a movement that started in the mid 1990’s. It was preceded by veganism, a diet and lifestyle that seeks to exclude the use of animals for food, clothing, or any other purpose. Freegans take it one-step further to also avoid conventional economic practices to stand up against materialism, conformity, profligacy and moral apathy. Freegans do not shop at grocery stores, or any large retailers. The belief is that corporations practice animal testing, destroy land, and conduct trade with countries that are responsible for human rights violations to produce their products. In freeganism, to purchase from these corporations is to support these injustices. So instead, they “dumpster dive” to show that we can live and eat well without wasting our resources or supporting capitalism. Freegans are not homeless or poor; they choose this lifestyle to make a political statement, and to reduce useable waste, as the food is unspoiled, and edible. And it’s not just groceries... Freegans avoid driving, and purchasing clothes, furniture, and other basic necessities.

You may wonder how freegans survive without spending money? They share in carpools, negotiate trades, dumpster dive, and utilize websites like Craigslist which has a “free goods” section. Through these methods they are able to live comfortably and capitalist-free. As the world becomes more ethically aware, making a stand becomes part of life. Conscious citizens recycle, donate to charities, and attend a rally or two, but eating garbage? Now, you begin to think of how you ate a few extra of those delectable zucchini slices at the dinner party, compliments of the Whole Food’s trash bins. As your friend continues to dumpster dive, finding bright lemons, organic cleaners, and packaged goods along the way, you give it some thought, take a deep breath and…what would you do?

See Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_L612od8Ng&feature=related
Written By Brandon Johnson

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