Oh Hello Apple Pie and Cheddar Brisee

Written and Photographed by Rebekah Peppler

Let’s get this right out in the open. I’m from Wisconsin. Born and raised on brats, beer and cheddar cheese, I can hold my own at a -20˚F Packer game, possess intricate know-how in order to navigate the rowdy aisles of a Brewer’s game without spilling any choice beverages and can boast of growing up witha foam cheese-head and chunk of authentic Lambeau turf in the downstairs freezer.So, when it came time for the first apple pie of the year and I found myself back in my home state, I wanted to honor it in only the best of ways. What are the best of ways for a Wisconsinite? With cheese, cheddar cheese.

Cheddar has long been the classic foil to apples, traditionally served on the side of apple pie, its sweet-savory combination balances perfectly on the tongue. But when leaving it up to the diner proves too cumbersome, cut out the middleman and bake it directly into the crust. It makes this timeless combination even easier, plus there’s the added bonus of a warm home inundated with the robust aroma of toasted cheddar cheese and sweet apple compote.

And if you can, get your hands on a vigorously sharp Wisconsin cheddar and make me – and my home state – proud.

Apple Pie Tartlettes with Cheddar Brisee
Serves 6

For the Cheddar Brisee
Adapted from Martha Stewart

1¼ cups all-purpose flour
pinch salt
I/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
2 – 4 Tbsp ice cold water
¾ cup sharp Wisconsin cheddar

1. Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl and cut in butter until lentil sized pieces form.
2. Add water and mix just till the dough comes together.
3. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill.
4. When well chilled, roll out and line six 4” tartlette shells.

For the Apple Compote

6 medium apples (I used a mixture of Paula Red and Zestar)
½ cup vanilla sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
generous pinch of salt
2 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
¼ tsp ground cloves
1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/3 cup water, plus more if needed

1. Core and chop apples into ½ inch pieces. Toss in fresh lemon juice. (I leave the skin on to impart a gorgeous ruby color and enhance texture).
2. Combine all ingredients in a heavy bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover with a parchment round, turn down the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until apples are tender and compote is thickened.
3. Line a sheet pan with plastic wrap allowing excess to hang over side; spread compote onto sheet pan and cover gently with excess wrap. Allow compote to cool completely.

To Assemble and Bake
1. Preheat over to 400˚F.
2. Prick the chilled tart shell with a fork, fill with cooled compote.
3. Bake 10-15 minutes until crust is browned.
4. Serve warm or at room temperature with lightly sweetened whipped cream.

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French Culinary Restaurant Review: Je me souviens (I remember) L'Ecole

Written by Anthony Ramos

With fond memories of my culinary alma matter, I stole away a Friday afternoon to have a cozy lunch at L’Ecole – the restaurant at The French Culinary Institute in SoHo. It was wonderful to be back in the neighborhood, but strange not to head straight to the kitchen, instead being led to a table for two. The restaurant was buzzing with activity as I imagined the kitchen was too. It is astonishing to think about the shear number of people that must interact and work together to just please one guest. From expediters to senior chefs to culinary students at different stations, from waiters to hosts to dishwashers and bussers. A tightly manufactured piece of machinery where the weakest cog can easily bring down the house. All of this crossed my mind even before the bread came to the table.

After ordering cocktails, Marc and I took a serious look at the menu. The seasonal lunch fare, prepared by FCI students, features three courses. After some wheeling and dealing (“if you order the tartare I will get the cavatelli, and then we can try both”) we decided to start off with the Arctic char tartare with walnuts, Stilton blue and Yorkshire pudding, and the Cavatelli with rock shrimp, fava beans and ricotta salata. The char tartare (say that fast three times) was silky and tasted like the sea but we both agreed the Stilton could have had a stronger presence. As for the cavatelli (the pasta nemesis from my own FCI final), it was well balanced and had a good array of flavors, perfect for a summer lunch.

We were then eager to move on to our main courses: Seared duck breast and braised leg with fingerling potatoes and sour cherry sauce for Marc, and a pan-roasted lamb loin with goat cheese polenta, asparagus, figs and lamb jus for me. I reminisced about the duck and lamb before it even approached the table – thinking about my own experience preparing similar dishes for L’Ecole as a student not so long ago. When our entrées arrived my lamb had a gorgeous pool of lamb jus. I was immediately reminded of the wondrous and deeply flavored sauces I learned to make as a student.

To say my lunch was satisfying and nostalgic would be an understatement. Let’s just say it brought me back to a joyful time in my life, confident in where I had come from as a chef. Read more!

How Did they Discover Coffee from a Bean?

Written by Andrea Scalici

I don’t know if it’s my inquisitive nature or my obvious love of food but I often find myself pondering the origins of some of my favorite, can’t live without, treats. Like coffee for example; who would have thought that simply roasting some beans would turn into this amazing black elixir I couldn’t start my day without? And so began my quest to finally uncover such answers...We start in Ethiopia around the 15th century. Legend has it that a goat herder came upon a lively group of “dancing goats” chewing on bright red berries from a bush. He decided to try to berries for himself, immediately enjoying the exhilaration. The man ran with the berries to a nearby monastery and showed them to an Islamic holy man, who in turn, disapproved of their use and threw them into his fire. The "Legend of Dancing Goats" goes on to describe the enticing, billowing aroma that came out of the fire where the beans were swiftly rescued from the flames, ground up, and dissolved in hot water – producing the world’s first cup of coffee.

The story then moves throughout Arabia, where qahwa beans were roasted and brewed similar to today, Persia, Turkey, and northern Africa. From the Muslim world, kahve spread to Italy and the rest of Europe, Indonesia, and the Americas. The first European caffè house opened in Italy in 1645.

Coffee has since seen many advances and reformations. One I have to wonder about is the world's most expensive variety, Kopi Luwak, named for the Indonesian word coffee and its "processor", the Asian Palm Civet. These cat/raccoon-like animals ingest the red coffee cherries containing the fruit and seed. The inner bean is not digested, but a unique combination of enzymes in the stomach break down the proteins that give coffee its bitter taste. The beans are defecated, still covered in some inner layers of the berry, washed, and given a light roast (so as to not destroy the complex flavors that develop through the process). The most pronounced characteristic of Kopi Luwak is a marked reduction in bitterness. How did anyone think to do this?! It is said that these omnivores tend to pick the ripest and sweetest fruit, thus providing brewers with a natural selection for the best coffee beans. But still?! Is there anything left to discover about coffee? I have to wonder...

In today’s world, these magic beans are a vital cash crop for many Third World countries where coffee is the primary export. Though the process hasn’t changed very much relatively speaking, the culture certainly has. On any given day in America you can choose regular or decaf, bold or medium, and au lait or light and sweet. You could even attend a cupping or coffee tasting to explore different regions’ distinctions. And on any given day, you can find me with my billowing aromatic, piping hot cup in my hand, complete with a little cream.

Stay tuned for the upcoming installments that explore the origins of popcorn, bagels, and more! Read more!

Seared Jumbo Scallops, Grilled Calamari, Swordfish Kebobs...

Written by Tracey Ceurvels

When you walk through the open doors to this ground-level restaurant you might think you’re somewhere far more exotic than Brooklyn. But with the buses, cars and taxis whizzing down Fulton Street, there is no mistaking that you’re in Fort Greene.Welcome to Aqualis Grill, the neighborhood’s newest addition to its ever-growing culinary scene, which serves Mediterranean food (with mostly Greek influences). The dining room is minimal yet warm and inviting with a tin ceiling, exposed brick and plants. There was once an Italian restaurant here (some of the basic elements are intact), but the space has been pleasantly revamped to suit owner Gorian Papa’s sensibilities. There’s an open kitchen where you can watch chef John Tsakanis, formerly of Kellari Taverna, make the restaurant’s specialty; fresh fish—Mediterranean sea bass, red snapper or royal dorado—picked that morning from Hunt’s Point then grilled whole, simply, with olive oil. The food here is clean, fresh and straightforward. Some of the highlights include the octopus appetizer ($10), grilled calamari with lemon saffron vinaigrette ($10), swordfish kebob with escarole ($19), the cod with spinach and roasted golden beets ($18) and the jumbo scallops, pan roasted with a white bean salad ($18). You must come here for the seafood, but if you’re feeling carnivorous, there are juicy lamb chops ($21) and a crisp and tender roast chicken ($16). There is also a cute bar where you can enjoy an appetizer or dinner, but on my visit, no alcohol (the liquor license still hadn’t arrived but hopefully it will soon). To top it all off, dessert here is a single option; a classic Greek dish of homemade baklava that’s served with yogurt topped with sour cherries. With its unique flair and bright flavors, Aqualis Grill is a welcome newcomer to the neighborhood. Read more!

Chocolate Anyone?

written by Deepa Chander

When I think about the most expensive chocolate dessert in the world, I picture it sitting proud on a plate, somewhere in the middle of an exotic resort being served by tuxeod clad gentleman, eating it while sipping the perfect champagne.But surprisingly, this is one dessert that I don't have to travel far to find, just hop on the subway and get to Serendipity 3, right here in New York City. Deemed the world's most expensive chocolate dessert, this lavish and luxurious item sells at a whopping $25,000. The Frozen Haute Chocolate is made from a blend of 28 cocoas from around the world and is served in a goblet lined with edible gold. It is topped with whipped cream, more gold and a side of Madeline au Truffle, which itself sells for $2,600 a pound. And for the "cherry on top", the dessert is plated with an 18k gold and diamond bracelet resting on the base of the goblet, and a gold spoon with white and chocolate diamonds as souvenirs. In this age of financial downfall, this may seem like a bit much. I mean, who in the world can afford to pay $25,000 for dessert? Probably just the filthy rich and famous, but then again this is New York where you have to think ahead all the time on the culinary scene. Coming up with unique and bizarre food is part of the process and, for some customers, part of the appeal. There are many other unique items made from chocolate that seem to attract crowds like chocolate spas to relax your mind and body at the Hotel Hershey in Pennsylvania, or chocolate flavored toothpaste - cause..well, why not? I guess the point is the excitement of paying an exuberant amount of money on dessert (and jewelry). Is it any good? Who cares? After shelling out $25, 000 for it, I doubt I would complain.

PS: This dessert is just a version of their popular frozen hot chocolate, created by owner Stephen Bruce.
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Cherry Stained Photography

written and photographed by Rebekah Peppler

Is it just me or have the cherries never been better then right here right now? Firm, juicy and sweet as the heavens, these amethyst phenoenons demand a hot summer day, a seat on a concrete curb and a surfeit of garnet-stained hands and lips. A few weeks ago, when my eyes proved too big for my stomach and cherries threatened to overtake the house, I reached for my favorite sweet tart dough recipe, doctored it up with a bit of cardamom, a touch of almond and let those crimson delights do all the work. Let's just say that tart never made it to sunset.

Since – as a rule – I don’t go a night without dessert, I switched out the filling for the probably the easiest custard known to man, dolloped it with lightly sweetened whipped cream and sat back as the sky turned from day to night, my lips and hands perfectly matching the cherry-red sky.

Cherry-Cardamom Tart
Serves 8-10

For Cardamom Sucrée Crust
For one 9” tart, six 3” tartlettes … and a bit extra for a rainy day
• 125 g powdered sugar
• 250 g butter; unsalted
• 3 eggs
• 500 g cake flour
• ½ tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp almond extract
• 1 tsp cardamom; freshly ground
Cream together butter and sugar until lightened and doubled in volume. Add eggs and almond extract gradually, mixing to combine after each addition. Sift together cake flour, baking powder and cardamom. Add all at once and mix just to combine. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill till firm.
For Almond Cream
• 125 g butter
• 125 g powdered sugar
• 125 g almond flour
• 3 eggs
• 1 tsp almond extract
• 20 g pastry cream powder (25 g cornstarch can be substituted)

Cream together butter, sugar and almond flour. Add eggs and almond extract gradually until completely combined. Add the pastry cream powder and mix tocombine.

For Tart
Preheat oven to 350˚ F. Roll out the sucrée and line a 9-inch tart shell, chill for at least 30 minutes. Dock the bottom of the shell and place an even layer of almond cream into the unbaked tart shell. Line with pitted Bing cherries and bake 40-50 minutes until the crust is browned and almond cream is set. Allow to cool.
Custard Tartlets with Sweet Cherries
Makes six 3-inch tartlettes
• 100 g vanilla sugar
• 2 eggs
• 50 ml heavy cream
• 125 ml milk
• ¾ tsp cardamom; freshly ground
• ¾ tsp vanilla extract
• ¼ tsp almond extract

• Cardamom-Sucrée
• Bing cherries; pitted
• Crème Chantilly

Line six tartlette molds with cardamom sucrée and chill. Dock the bottom of the tartlettes with a fork, fill with baking weights and blind bake till lightly browned. When cooled, whisk together the eggs and sugar. Add the heavy cream, whole milk, cardamom and extracts until incorporated. Strain custard, fill tart shells with pitted cherries and fill with custard. Bake 300˚ for 20-25 minutes or until custard is set. Cool and serve with crème chantilly.

For the Crème Chantilly
• 100 g heavy whipping cream
• 25 g powdered sugar
• ½ tsp vanilla extract

Whip heavy cream to a soft peak, add in sugar and vanilla and whip to medium peak.

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Cali: The Cottage Eatery

written by Martine Boyer

Snugly nestled in the corner of a strip mall parking lot, the Cottage Eatery is a delectable reason to venture into tiny Tiburon, a small seaside town, in the Marin Headlands, no more than 15 minutes outside of San Francisco.Envisioning a cottage by the sea, the location was a disappointment quickly forgotten once we stepped inside the softly lit room. Run by Edward Carew and Jennifer Rebman, a husband and wife team, the year-old Cottage Eatery offers a stylish an inventive menu, created from locally sourced ingredients.

We were welcomed warmly, seated immediately, and quickly charmed by our rustic surroundings. Our informal yet informed server turned out to be Chef Carew’s wife and partner, Jennifer.

What followed was a two-hour progression of ooh’s and aaah’s. Lightly marinated Monterey Bay sardines, quickly followed by braised tripe served piping hot. These were a delicious start to our eventual six course meal. Our next starter, seared foie gras, a creamy combination of layered flavors, was one of the highlights of the evening. Unable to resist, we ordered two main dishes, the spaghetti dish, which belied the simplicity of its name by leaving us wanting more, and the Duroc suckling pig, perfectly cooked and armed with crackling skin and melt in your mouth tender meat.

Finally, dessert was an unpretentious peach tart. Effortlessly wowing us, with flaky crust and warm sweet peach flavor, it was a delicious complement to the velvety vanilla ice cream accompaniment.

We left reluctantly, but satiated, and planned our return to the cottage by the parking lot. A worthwhile incentive to cross the Golden Gate Bridge.

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Ribbed

written by Anthony Ramos

Memories linger from my 4th of July holiday in Michigan and interfere with my “back to work” reality. Lazy days at our lake house are now replaced with the daily grind that is NYC.Happily over the long weekend I was able to cook casual meals for us to enjoy al fresco.

We all had a hankering for ribs, so I reached for my iPhone to reference some recipes on BigOven – my latest app obsession. List in hand we headed to a supermarket. I loaded up on all the necessary spices and ingredients to satisfy our current craving.
Back at the homestead, I mixed together a dry rub of smoked paprika, garlic, chili and onion powder, cayenne and white pepper, salt, and sugar. I generously applied the dry rub to the meaty ribs and let them relax in the refrigerator for two hours.

After kicking back on the pontoon boat for a leisure putt-putt around the lake I returned to preheat the oven to 300 degrees and to start making the saucy glaze. Equal parts of cider vinegar, brown sugar and Dijon mustard are slowly heated in a saucepan and reduced to a thick syrupy sauce. Taste testing along the way, I added more brown sugar to balance the acidity of the vinegar.
With two racks of ribs in the oven I basted them every half hour for the next three hours. The house was filled with the scent of aromatic spices and the zing of cider vinegar.

To keep my stomach distracted and my head occupied I focused on building the evening’s bonfire. S’mores are traditionally on the dessert menu and there’s really nothing like a fire-toasted marshmallow, melted chocolate and graham cracker treat.

Every visit to the oven door was in anticipation of dinner. Fresh corn on the cob was prepped for the grill with silks and husk removed. Each cob was nestled in a foil blanket with pats of butter, salt and cracked black pepper. With the grill heating up I removed the ribs from the oven and placed them on the grill with ears of corn outlining the two beautiful racks. Basting once more helped the ribs attain a crispy caramelization and I rushed them to a serving platter. The ears of corn were sweet, buttery and the kernels were slightly charred and meltingly tender.

And the ribs,… meaty, succulent, sweet, spicy, smoky, and fall off the bone perfect accompanied by sticky fingers and smiles. Memories like this will just have to sustain us until we return.

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